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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

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Autor:
Vydavatel:
Publikováno: 2015
Formát: paperback 464 stran
Cena: 449 Kč ( 408 Kč bez DPH)
Ušetříte 50 Kč (10%)
Běžná cena 499 Kč
Dostupnost:

Anotace

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

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Knihovnické kódy

  • EAN: 9781472151391

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